We wish to incorporate track lighting to the new ceiling, with its electrical supply functioning from the new cavity developed with the insulation. The existing supporter also needs its electrical source to operate by that Area.
The leading flaw On this roof appears for being the ice and water membrane at the best issue during the rafter bays. Would just normal felt paper have permitted enough dampness to dissipate from the roof sheathing preventing rot?, I kind of doubt it.
Most rafters aren’t deep plenty of to accommodate the insulation required to meet up with bare minimum R-values needed by code, especially if the rafter bays contain a air flow channel.
I are actually making use of rigid breadboard style expanded polystyrene while in the rim joists and thought precisely the same could be put under the sheathing in between the rafter bays, and with any gaps sealed with a urethane spray foam like Fill and Seal. Is there a top quality that makes spray foam suitable and rigid foam unacceptable?
I've crafted log homes within the Yukon Territory in northern Canada for 30 a long time. Most log buildings have cathedral ceilings. The majority of the roofs We have now developed are as follows (from The underside up): log purloins, nominal 2" (2x6) t&g decking, 6mil poly, 1 1/two" extruded polystyrene foam, 2x10 rafters on 24" centers, 7" fiberglass, 2x4 strapping, seven/sixteen OSB, underlayment (15 lb paper, 30lb felt, or now we might even use ice and h2o defend). There will be about an inch of air House below the strapping for both vertical and horizontal air circulation. All roofs are vented with strip vents in the eaves and vents while in the soffit (2x6 t&g) at the height at both equally finishes. I'd disagree that venting is not really necessary should you prevent the airflow on the warm facet, for two good reasons. To start with it really is very hard to halt all airflow, In particular with conventional classic techniques (ie chimney and plumbing vent penetrations with the roof) We've many approaches made through the years to seal the vb on the eaves and gables, but there are still nail penetrations throughout the vb. General I do think we had very restricted seals but a single could under no circumstances say airtight.
In the absence of the airtight ceiling, roof air flow can do much more hurt than superior, due to the fact air movement in rafter bays can stimulate indoor air to leak by means of ceiling cracks.
I've a fifty year-old seasonal cottage in a very northern climate. The easy 6/12 gable roof is composed of genuine 2x6 rafters (24" oc), sheathed with 1/two" plywood and coated with asphalt shingles. There is absolutely no insulation while in the ceiling and I think little to no efficient insulation inside the 2x4 walls. In the summer the warmth get within will make living Pretty much unbearable. I believe that the biggest bang for the buck can be to handle the ceiling insulation situation very first, but would want to preserve the inside overall go right here look.
By Martin Holladay
Here's a link to a GBA depth for an insulated roof assembly with vent channels earlier mentioned the roof sheathing and steel roofing:
3. Applying continual Ice & Water Protect is usually risky, but it's Alright if you are adhering to the PERSIST method and Placing all of your insulation on the surface in the peel-and-adhere. The strategy can work, but you'll need far more foam on the outside of the roof.
2. I do think your proposed detail will be tough to Construct. How straightforward can it be to harmony to the rafters as you put in the membrane, presumably with staples, after which you can install the 2x2 spacers, presumably with nails or screws, all without the need of putting a foot concerning the rafters? I wouldn’t want to make it happen.
Put in closed-mobile spray foam versus the underside on the roof sheathing, and no other variety of insulation. Make certain that the thickness with the spray foam is sufficient to fulfill minimum code prerequisites. Do not forget that open-cell spray foam is dangerous in all weather zones, and if open-cell spray foam is set up Within this site in a cold local weather, the underside in the cured foam have to be protected with gypsum drywall that has been painted with vapor-retarder paint. Vapor-retarder paint is ineffective if it is sprayed directly over the cured foam.
I am a tad stumped on this a person - I'd love to vent this roof assembly, but I can't say no matter if there'll be described as a organic convective flow as there might be with rafters sloping With all the roof pitch. My rafters are operating degree but they sit on parallel curved prime plates. I am able to use 12" rafters and make 10" of batt work, leaving lots of ventilation Place. I'm able to drill the tops of your engineered joist flanges to permit air flow 'up-slope' (perpendicular to your rafters) and while in the rafter bays, and I can offer ongoing perimeter air flow (Cor-A-Vent strip) at my roof fascias (eave, ridge and gables).
Can we (does the code make it possible for it)? Will it make realistic feeling? Are there pitfalls due to our climate? How might We've got to switch that to suit it to out problem?